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Pergola bauen mit Festool

    Description

    A pergola or trellis adds structure and character to any garden and can be built using just a few hand-held power tools. This project guide walks you through the entire construction process—from precisely cutting the wood with a cordless circular saw and cordless jigsaw, to crafting decorative beam ends, all the way to creating sturdy joints with the DOMINO XL.
    The project is rounded out by professional surface finishing using belt sanders and cordless sanders, as well as edge finishing with a plane and an edge router. All key steps are explained step by step—from the initial marking to the assembly of the finished structure.

    Machines/Accessories

    Prepare/Set Up

    • Marking the lumber.

      The lumber is marked according to the plan. This involves transferring all necessary markings for cuts, joints, and the alignment of the components onto the lumber.
      It is recommended to mark all the necessary lines first and only then begin cutting. This helps prevent errors and allows the individual steps to be carried out more efficiently.

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    • Making Stencils for Ironing

      Creating patterns for all yokes.
      The design calls for a total of four brackets. As a decorative element, these are tapered toward the center. A 45° cut is made at each end.
      To ensure that all four brackets have the same shape and dimensions, a template is first created. This serves as a guide for the subsequent machining of the individual components.

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    • Making a template for the rafters.

      First, a template is made for the rafters. Both the projection at the point where the rafter rests on the purlin and the shape of the rafter head are marked on the template.
      In this example, the cutout is 30 mm deep and its width matches that of the purlin. The rafter head is rounded as a decorative element.

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    • Making a template for the purlin head.

      Making a template for the purlin head. To make the purlin head, start by creating a template out of cardboard. The shape of the purlin head can be customized to suit your personal taste.

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    Procedure

    • Cutting the posts and purlins to size

      The cuts are made using a cordless circular saw with a miter guide attached. Since the saw’s maximum cutting depth is not sufficient for the entire cross-section of the wood, the cuts are made from two sides. Alternatively, the cut can, of course, also be made with a larger saw whose cutting depth is sufficient for the respective wood cross-section. 

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    • Make a 45° miter cut on the curves

      After marking the joints, make the 45° cuts with the miter saw. With a little practice, these cuts can also be made using a cordless circular saw and a miter guide. However, for precise and repeatable cuts, the miter saw is the better choice.

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    • Cut out the curve at the bow

      The brackets should be rounded for aesthetic purposes. The cut is made using a cordless jigsaw. The appropriate saw blade is the S 105/4 FSG/5 WOOD UNIVERSAL jigsaw blade.

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    • Marking the rafters

      Using the template, mark the positions of two rafters and transfer all necessary markings. This involves marking both the rafter’s sweep and the two ends of the rafter head. 

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    • Prepare the rafter joints

      All rafters should be cut to size as a set. This involves making both the end cuts and the taper in the middle section at the same time. To do this, place the two rafters—which have already been marked—on one outer side each. The remaining rafters are placed in the middle between them. Make sure they are properly aligned: the flange sides should face down. Next, align the rafter bundle using a square. After that, the remaining processing steps can be carried out on the bundle.

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    • Adjust the cutting depth for the fluting process

      The bevel is created by making several cuts. To do this, you must adjust the circular saw to the desired bevel depth. 

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    • Create a tab

      Now it's time to cut. Near branches, the cut lines are placed closer together. This makes it easier to finish the material afterward. 

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    • "Clean up" the protrusion

      Using a chisel or a gouging tool, the area where the groove is being cut is now "cleaned out." To do this, the sections are first chipped away, and then the blade is used to finish the cut to the required final depth.

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    • Creating Grooves and Recesses with the Adjustable Grooving Tool

      A quick way to cut grooves and recesses is to use the adjustable grooving attachment on the HK 85 handheld circular saw. With the adjustable groover mounted on the HK 85, grooves and recesses can be created quickly and efficiently by milling multiple times.

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    • Rafter Head Mitered Cut

      The miter cut at the ends of the rafters is made using a cordless circular saw and a guide rail. It is not necessary to complete the cut all the way through, since the lower section will subsequently be rounded off.

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    • Mark the rafters' ends for decoration

      All rafter heads are marked using the template and rounded off.

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    • Use the cordless jigsaw to cut out all the curves at the rafter heads. The appropriate saw blade is the S 105/4 FSG. If you’re making a lot of cuts, it’s recommended that you use a dust extraction system.

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    • Purlin Head Ornamentation

      The ends of the purlins should also be decorated. With the cordless jigsaw, even cuts in thicker sections of wood can be made with ease. With the splinter guard in place and the right saw blade, you can achieve clean cuts with edges that are virtually free of splinters. The S 145/4 FSG is particularly well-suited for cutting curves.

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    • Connecting the purlin, posts, and brackets

      A classic wood joint in carpentry is the mortise-and-tenon joint. In this case, a plug-in joint is created using a DOMINO dowel. This allows the components to be easily slotted together and ensures they are already correctly positioned for subsequent fastening with screws.

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    • The connection is made using two 14-mm dowels positioned one above the other. The dowels can be positioned anywhere, as long as the reference sides remain the same. It is therefore recommended to use the flange side as a reference and to always measure from the same reference edge of the post.

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    • Tip: Use the mark that lines up with the second anchor pin. Then you can align the pin with the post.

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    • Connecting the braces to the posts and purlins

      The position of the joint is determined using an axis mark, which is placed as close to the center of the component as possible. In this example, measurements were taken 8 cm back from the front edge of the bow.

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    • SIPO dowels are used for the connection because the structure will later be installed outdoors. The dowels are used solely for positioning and do not serve any structural function. The required structural load-bearing capacity of the connection is ensured by the additional bolted connection.

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    • Test Setup

      It is recommended that you do a test assembly to check the fit; this will prevent complications at the installation site. 

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    • Installing H-Post Brackets

      Once the framing is complete, the three H-post supports are mounted to the ends of the posts. To do this, holes (10 mm in this example) are drilled from both sides. The first hole is drilled to a maximum depth of two-thirds of the required drilling depth. This ensures that the bolt fits precisely and that the hole is drilled cleanly. Alternatively, a drill stand can also be used for the holes.

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    • Sanding Rafter Heads

      Use the belt sander to sand the rafter heads. It is recommended to start with a coarser sandpaper (e.g., 80-grit) to level the surface. Then, use 120-grit sandpaper for the final sanding.

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    • Final result.

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    • Sanding Surfaces

      Now, all remaining surfaces of the rafters and braces are sanded with the belt sander.

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    • Sanding the purlin head

      Just as with the rafter ends, the purlin ends are also sanded with a belt sander until the desired surface finish is achieved.

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    • Edge Finishing

      The cordless edge router is used to finish the cut edges of all components. In this example, the router is equipped with a 45° chamfer bit. 

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    • Pre-assembly

      At the installation site, the structure is first assembled while lying flat. The components are simply slotted together. The DOMINO dowels are inserted without glue. Of course, the joints can also be glued if necessary. In this case, the dowels serve solely to position the structure and, to a lesser extent, to stabilize it. 

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    • The individual components are fastened together using appropriate screws and a cordless drill/driver.

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    • Erecting the Structure

      The structure is erected and secured in its intended position using wooden beams and supports. This allows the structure to be aligned properly before the foundations are poured with concrete. 

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    • Grind away the protective coatings

      Any dirt or grime that accumulates during transport and installation can be removed with the cordless sander. 

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    • Installing Rafters

      The rafters are spaced evenly and secured with appropriate screws. 

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    • Mixing Concrete

      The concrete is mixed using the mixer. For remote locations far from power sources, the Powerstation is a safe and practical alternative. 

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    • Pour concrete for the foundations

      The foundations are poured using the concrete that was mixed earlier. Care must be taken to ensure that the concrete is sufficiently compacted to guarantee a stable and durable foundation. 

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    • Final Result

      Once the concrete has cured, the supports and bracing can be removed. The structure is now complete. 

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